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December 10, 2018

(3 Videos) Pedophile Jeffrey Epstein aboard the 'Lolita Express' with Alan Dershowitz and the other scumbags who protect them - Miami Herald journalists investigate Epstein


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Virginia Roberts says she was loaned out by Jeffrey Epstein to his friend Prince Andrew, shown here. He denies they had sex.

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All aboard the 'Lolita Express': Flight logs reveal trips Bill Clinton and Alan Dershowitz took on pedophile Jeffrey Epstein's private jet with anonymous women


Palm Beach multimillionaire Jeffrey Epstein is a free man, despite sexually abusing dozens of underage girls according to police and prosecutors. His victims have never had a voice, until now.

Virginia Roberts was working at Mar-a-Lago when she was recruited to be a masseuse to Palm Beach hedge fund manager Jeffrey Epstein. She was lured into a life of depravity and sexual abuse.

Read more here: https://www.miamiherald.com/news/local/article221957120.html#storylink=cpy


The girls who were abused by Jeffrey Epstein and the cops who championed their cause remain angry over what they regard as a gross injustice, while Epstein's employees and those who engineered his non-prosecution agreement have prospered.

Read more here: https://www.miamiherald.com/news/local/article214210674.html#storylink=cpy


For years, Jeffrey Epstein abused teen girls, police say. A timeline of his case

2005
March: A 14-year-old girl and her parents report that Jeffrey Epstein molested her at a mansion in Palm Beach. She said a female acquaintance and classmate at Royal Palm Beach High School had taken her to the house to give him a massage in exchange for money.
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Jeffrey Epstein repeatedly engaged in sexual activity with underage girls at his waterfront Palm Beach home on El Brillo Way, according to police in the Town of Palm Beach. Epstein also owns residences in New York City and the U.S. Virgin Islands, among other locales.
Emily Michot emichot@miamiherald.com
April: Palm Beach police begin trash pulls at Epstein’s home, discovering a telephone message for Epstein with the girl’s name on it, and a time that matched the time that she told police she was there. They find the names and phone numbers of other girls on message slips in his trash.
October: With the police probe in full swing, one of Epstein’s assistants calls one of the girls just as she is being questioned by police. Investigators begin interviewing more girls, as well as Epstein’s butlers, who tell them that Epstein had frequent visits from girls throughout the day. On Oct. 20, they execute a search warrant at his house on El Brillo Way in Palm Beach.

2006

May: Police sign a probable cause affidavit charging Epstein and two of his assistants with multiple counts of unlawful sex acts with a minor. The Palm Beach state attorney, Barry Krischer, instead refers the case to a grand jury.
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Town of Palm Beach police were unhappy with the handling of the Epstein case by then-State Attorney Barry Krischer.
June: The grand jury, after hearing from only one girl, returns an indictment of one count of solicitation of prostitution. The charge does not reflect that the victim in question and others were minors.
July: Epstein’s powerhouse legal team tries to negotiate a deal with the State Attorney’s Office. Lawyers discuss a deferred prosecution in which Epstein would enter a pretrial intervention program and serve no jail time.
July: After pressure from the Palm Beach police chief, the FBI opens a federal investigation, dubbed “Operation Leap Year.’’ Documents list the possible crime as “child prostitution.’’
November: The FBI begins interviewing potential witnesses and victims from Florida, New York and New Mexico.

2007

May: As the U.S. Attorney’s Office prepares to present the case to a federal grand jury, Epstein’s attorneys request a meeting to discuss the investigation.
June: A 53-page indictment is prepared by the U.S. Attorney’s Office as, simultaneously, plea negotiations are initiated with Epstein’s legal team.
July: Grand jury subpoenas are issued for Epstein’s computers, which were apparently removed from his Palm Beach home prior to the police search.
August: The U.S. attorney in Miami, Alexander Acosta, enters into direct discussions about the plea agreement; a motion to compel production of Epstein’s computers is delayed.
September: Federal prosecutors draw up several federal plea agreements that are rejected by Epstein and his attorneys. Epstein signs a non-prosecution agreement on Sept. 24, but his attorneys continue to delay his court appearance.
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Alexander Acosta has been criticized for his handling of the Jeffrey Epstein case as U.S. attorney. He later became the dean of Florida International University’s law school and, later still, President Trump’s secretary of labor.
Miami Herald file photo
October: With the non-prosecution agreement still being debated, Acosta meets with Epstein lawyer Jay Lefkowitz at the West Palm Beach Marriott on Okeechobee Road to discuss finalizing a deal. Among the terms agreed upon: that the victims would not be notified, that the deal would be kept under seal and all grand jury subpoenas would be canceled.
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The Marriott hotel in West Palm Beach, at 1001 Okeechobee Blvd., is where U.S. Attorney Alexander Acosta met with Jeffrey Epstein’s attorney to work out a plea arrangement.

November: Epstein’s lawyers object to an addendum to the agreement. The provision called for a special master to appoint an attorney to represent Epstein victims’ rights to civil compensation.
December: The two sides continue to debate the addendum. Epstein attorney Kenneth Starr asks for a review of the agreement by the U.S. Department of Justice in Washington, further delaying its execution. Victims are told the investigation is continuing.

2008

January: Epstein attorney, Lefkowitz, calls Acosta, telling him his client will not go through with the agreement because it requires him to register as a sex offender.
February: With the plea negotiations and the Justice Department review still in limbo, the FBI continues its probe, locating more witnesses and evidence.
March: Preparations are made for a new federal grand jury presentation. In court documents, the U.S. Attorney’s Office notes that Epstein’s victims are being harassed by his lawyers, who are not specifically named.
May: The Justice Department issues finding that, if a plea deal is not reached, Epstein can be federally prosecuted.

Read more here: https://www.miamiherald.com/news/local/article221404845.html#storylink=cpy


June: Epstein’s lawyers revisit plea negotiations, and on June 30, Epstein appears in a Palm Beach County courtroom. He pleads guilty to state charges: one count of solicitation of prostitution and one count of solicitation of prostitution with a minor under the age of 18. He is sentenced to 18 months in jail, followed by a year of community control or house arrest. He is adjudicated as a convicted sex offender who must register twice a year in Florida.
July: Epstein’s victims learn about his plea in state court after the fact. They file an emergency petition to force federal prosecutors to comply with the federal Crime Victims’ Rights Act, which mandates certain rights for crime victims, including the right to be informed about plea agreements and the right to appear at sentencing.
August: Epstein’s victims learn that he has already been sent to jail, and that the federal investigation is over. They seek to have his plea agreement unsealed, but federal prosecutors argue against releasing the agreement, commencing a yearlong court battle to learn the terms of Epstein’s plea bargain.
October: Epstein begins work release from the county stockade. He is picked up by his private driver six days a week and transported to an office in West Palm Beach, where he accepts visitors for up to 12 hours a day. He returns to the stockade in the evenings to sleep.


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The Miami Herald obtained thousands of FBI and court records, lawsuits, and witness depositions, and went to federal court in New York to access sealed documents in the reporting of "Perversion of Justice." The Herald also tracked down more than 60 women who said they were victims, some of whom had never spoken of the abuse before.
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2009

July: Epstein is released from the Palm Beach County stockade, five months early. He must register as a sex offender and is on probation for a year, confined to his Palm Beach home except to travel to his office in West Palm Beach. However, records show he frequently makes trips to Manhattan and to his home in the U.S. Virgin Islands.
August: Palm Beach Police Capt. George Frick finds Epstein walking along A1A in the middle of the afternoon, when he was supposed to be at work in his office in downtown West Palm Beach. Epstein says he is walking to work, even though the location where he is found is not a direct route to his office. His probation officer says Epstein has permission to get some exercise.
September: The federal non-prosecution agreement is made public. By September, at least a dozen civil lawsuits have been filed by women who allege they were molested by Epstein when they were underage. Epstein begins the process of settling them out of court.
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Jeffrey Epstein never went to federal prison but his butler/houseman, Alfredo Rodriguez, did, for obstruction of justice. He was busted for hiding Epstein’s journal and trying to sell it. He has since died.
© Facebook
November: One of Epstein’s former butlers tries to sell to an undercover FBI agent a black book filled with the names of hundreds of girls and young women that Epstein allegedly procured for sex and massages. The butler tells FBI agents he witnessed nude underage girls at Epstein’s pool and had known that the millionaire was having sex with them. He also said he saw pornography involving underage girls on Epstein’s computers. The butler/houseman, Alfredo Rodriguez, is later charged with obstruction of justice and sentenced to federal prison. He dies in 2015. The contents of the black book become public as part of several civil lawsuits.

2010

April: Flight logs obtained as part of civil lawsuits against Epstein show an assortment of politicians, academics, celebrities, heads of state and world leaders flying on Epstein’s jets in the early 2000s. Among them: former President Bill Clinton, former national security adviser Sandy Berger, former Colombian President Andrés Pastrana and lawyer Alan Dershowitz.

2011

March: Two of Epstein’s victims file a motion in federal court accusing the government of violating their rights by failing to notify them about the plea deal and keeping it secret. Among other things, they want the plea deal invalidated in the hopes of sending Epstein to prison. They accuse federal prosecutors of deceiving them with “false notification letters.’’
September: U.S. District Judge Kenneth Marra rejects the U.S. Attorney’s Office argument that it was under no obligation to notify victims prior to striking a non-prosecution agreement with Epstein because there were no federal charges filed against him. The decision marks a victory for Epstein’s victims, but the case will drag on for seven more years.
November: Epstein must register in New York as the highest and most dangerous level of sex offender, despite efforts by him and the New York District Attorney’s office to lower the classification. A Level 3 status means “high risk of repeat offense and a threat to public safety exists,” according to the state’s guidelines.

2012

March-December: Calling himself a “celebrated philanthropist’’ and a “renowned educational investor,’’ Epstein undertakes a public relations campaign to counter bad press about his sexual exploits. His foundation donates millions to scientific research and sponsors global conferences on ways to achieve world peace and save the planet. He funds cancer and educational research projects around the country.

2015


Read more here: https://www.miamiherald.com/news/local/article221404845.html#storylink=cpy



January: Virginia Roberts files court papers in Florida claiming that she was forced by Epstein to have sex with Prince Andrew and lawyer Alan Dershowitz when she was underage. In a sworn affidavit, she provides photographs of her with the prince and with Epstein’s close associate, British socialite Ghislaine Maxwell. She claims Maxwell worked as Epstein’s madam, which she denies. Dershowitz and the prince deny her claims as well, setting off a series of legal actions between Dershowitz and Roberts’ attorneys that are later resolved in an out-of-court settlement.
April: A federal judge rules that Roberts cannot join the federal Crime Victims’ Rights Act lawsuit and that her affidavit — accusing Prince Andrew and Dershowitz of having sex with her when she was underage — be stricken from the case. Dershowitz said the ruling meant he was vindicated. However, the judge does not address the veracity of Roberts’ claims, writing: “The factual details regarding with whom and where the Jane Does engaged in sexual activities are immaterial and impertinent to this central claim.’’
September: Roberts sues Maxwell in federal court in New York, claiming that Epstein’s alleged madam defamed her in public statements in the media. The lawsuit is widely viewed as a vessel for Epstein’s victims to expose the scope of Epstein’s crimes. Several civil lawsuits filed the same year allege that Epstein and Maxwell operated an international sex trafficking operation.
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Virginia Roberts holds a photo of herself at 16, her age when she met Jeffrey Epstein. Her life had already been marred by sexual abuse even before she met the multimillionaire.
Emily Michot emichot@miamiherald.com

2016

June: A lawsuit is filed in Manhattan by a woman who once used the name Katie Johnson, claiming that she was raped by then-presidential candidate Donald Trump at a party at Epstein’s Manhattan mansion in 1994 when she was 13 years old. Trump and Epstein both categorically deny it ever happened.
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‘How in the world, do you, the U.S. attorney, engage in a negotiation with a criminal defendant, basically allowing that criminal defendant to write up the agreement?’ said Bradley Edwards, shown here, who is representing some of the victims of serial sex abuser and Palm Beach multimillionaire Jeffrey Epstein.
Emily Michot emichot@miamiherald.com
November: Johnson backs out of a press conference just days before Election Day, saying she had been threatened and was fearful. She later drops the lawsuit.

2017

February: President Trump nominates former Miami federal prosecutor Acosta as U.S. secretary of labor. Acosta is compelled at his confirmation hearing to briefly address questions about the deal he approved for Epstein. One lawmaker requests more records from the Epstein case. Acosta is confirmed.
June: Roberts settles her lawsuit with Maxwell for an undisclosed sum.

2018

December: Civil trial is scheduled in Palm Beach County Court on Bradley Edwards’ allegations that Epstein sued him to punish him for representing several of his victims. The malicious-prosecution lawsuit is set to begin Dec. 4. Epstein has indicated he will not appear in court for trial.

Read more here: https://www.miamiherald.com/news/local/article221404845.html#storylink=cpy

Read

How Miami Herald journalists investigated Jeffrey Epstein

The Team

Investigative Reporter: Julie K. Brown Investigations Editor: Casey Frank Visual Journalist: Emily Michot Interaction Designer: Aaron Albright Video production: Marta Oliver Craviotto, Emily Michot, Julie K. Brown Copy Editor: Mary Behne Social Media Editors: Adrian Ruhi, Noel Gonzalez Drone Footage: Pedro Portal Director of Design: Jessica Gilbert Senior Manager of Design: Eddie Alvarez 



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Dershowitz’s finest moment, however, has to be his legal defense of Jeffrey Epstein, the billionaire financier who was investigated by the FBI for trafficking underage prostitutes in his mansion and on his private jet, dubbed the “Lolita Express.” At least 40 women, some of them as young as 12, alleged that Epstein knowingly solicited sex from minors and lent his underage harem to a host of high-profile perverts. Prior to his mid-2000s downfall, Epstein had ties to big names like Bill Clinton, whose name appears 11 times in Epstein’s flight logs; Kevin Spacey, now a disgraced pedophile in his own right; and Trump, who told New York in 2002 that “[Epstein is] a lot of fun to be with. It is even said that he likes beautiful women as much as I do, and many of them are on the younger side.” Dershowitz jumped to Epstein’s defense during the initial federal investigation in 2005 and 2006. According to a contemporaneous account in New York, Dershowitz sought to sully the reputations of the underage accusers: he “provided the police and the state attorney’s office with a dossier on a couple of the victims gleaned from their MySpace sites — showing alcohol and drug use and lewd comments.” With the help of Dershowitz, Epstein was able to negotiate the federal government down to a single charge of soliciting prostitution, to which he pled guilty and served a total of 13 months in prison. Epstein was released in 2011.
Despite Dershowitz’s best efforts, the Epstein scandal resurfaced. In 2014, a lawsuit was filed in Florida by Virginia Roberts alleging that Epstein had recruited her from her prior employer — Donald Trump’s Mar-a-Lago resort, where she worked as a towel girl at the age of 15 — and trafficked her as a sex slave to Prince Andrew and Dershowitz himself, both of whom appeared many times in Epstein’s flight logs between 1997 and 2005. The purpose of this lawsuit was to have Epstein’s 2008 plea agreement thrown out. Prince Andrew and Dershowitz both vociferously denied the allegations. Andrew, who had been photographed with Roberts during the period in question and openly partied with Epstein to celebrate the Level 3 Sex Offender’s 2011 release from prison, denied through his spokesperson that the two "had any form of sexual contact or relationship.” No explanation was offered for why a 17-year-old girl of no familial relation to any of these men was present in their social circle. Dershowitz maintained on the Today Show that he “was never in the presence of a single underage woman” and “never saw [Epstein] doing anything improper.”
Dershowitz countersued and referred to Roberts’ lawyers as “villains,” accusing the court of treating him unfairly by accusing him of sex crimes in a lawsuit in which he was not a party. In 2015, Dershowitz had the accusations stricken from the record, and in 2016 both parties dropped their suits after a settlement that included an undisclosed financial arrangement. During this ordeal, Dershowitz emphatically denied having been close with Epstein, telling The American Lawyer in 2015 that their relationship was “entirely professional” and mainly centered on encouraging Epstein’s multi-million dollar donations to Harvard. This contrasted with Dershowitz’s past comments about Epstein, like when he told Vanity Fair in a 2003 Epstein profile that “I'm on my 20th book... The only person outside my immediate family that I send drafts to is Jeffrey.” From that same interview with The American Lawyer: “People know that I won't argue a case or give a speech unless my wife travels with me. This is not the profile of someone who screws around.” This seems to contradict the flight logs, which show Dershowitz traveling without his wife every time his name appears.
Whoops!

  • Flight logs for Jeffrey Epstein's private plane dubbed the 'Lolita Express' were published for the first time on Thursday
  • They show that former President Bill Clinton boarded the plane with women believed to have been involved in creating underage sex slave ring 
  • Alleged victim Virginia Roberts says she was recruited as a slave when she was 15, and that she was forced to have sex with both Prince Andrew and Harvard law profession Alan Dershowitz
  • The latter, she says, molested her mid-flight on the private jet 
  • Both the Duke of York and Dershowitz have fiercely denied their involvement in the ring 
just released flight records show Harvard law professor Alan Dershowitz has been flying with convicted pedophile Jeffrey Epstein on the financier's private jet dubbed the 'Lolita Express' since as early as 1997, despite public statements that they were only acquaintances.

The high-profile lawyer has been distancing himself from Epstein ever since a young woman named Virginia Roberts filed a lawsuit claiming she was recruited to work as a 'sex slave' for Epstein when she was just 15, naming both Dershowitz and Prince Andrew as two of her molesters.

The flight records, obtained by Gawker, also show former President Bill Clinton rode on Epstein's jet at least 11 times, and often with two of Epstein's female associates believed to have provided the dozens of underage girls to their boss and his well-connected friends.


CNN allowed Dershowitz to whine on the air about being snubbed at Martha’s Vineyard as recently as July 7.
Having had a decade-long friendship with a serial child molester who was publicly known to like his women “on the younger side” — and then working to ensure that he got off with a slap on the wrist once the allegations were made public — was apparently not enough to soil Dershowitz’s reputation. Neither was his decision to join Harvey Weinstein’s defense team in April, an association that should, at the very least, make it impossible to appear on cable news. But because Dershowitz is somehow still considered a selfless crusader for justice, whose predilection for defending high-profile rapists and pedophiles (the personal lives of whom mysteriously overlap with his own) is purely coincidental, none of this seems to matter.
Tucker Carlson, who lambasted Democrats for taking donations from Weinstein and said in 2017 that lawyer Lisa Bloom — who temporarily defended Weinstein in the early stages of the scandal — “took the side of the predator over the prey, likely because the price was right," continues to give Dershowitz endless fawning interviews about Trump’s innocence and Martha’s Vineyard without so much as mentioning the disgraced movie producer. CNN, which covered the Weinstein allegations in great detail, allowed Dershowitz to whine on the air about being snubbed at Martha’s Vineyard as recently as July 7. His recent activities outside the dinner-party circuit were left unmentioned here, just as they were on Carlson. For the cable-news set, Dershowitz isn’t “Harvey Weinstein’s lawyer,” as anyone else on Weinstein’s legal team would surely be described on the CNN chyron, or a lifelong ally of violent misogynists and child rapists. He is a lovable contrarian scamp whose complaints about his social life are a pleasant diversion from more serious news.
In a just world, Dershowitz would be snubbed not only in Martha’s Vineyard, but everywhere he goes. His associations, not just with Trump and Fox News, but with Epstein, Weinstein, and the rest of his celebrity clients, should be more than enough to blackball him from every news network, Harvard, and any future legal team, given that hiring him is a virtual admission of guilt. Even if he had never jumped to Trump’s defense in the Mueller investigation, he would still be a jowly, liver-spotted bag of bones who has devoted his career to ensuring that the ultra-rich are not held accountable for their crimes. Now that he has added Trumpism to his vast array of nauseating qualities, it is utterly unfathomable that anyone not personally invested in seeing Trump exculpated in the Mueller investigation is even willing to consider a position on Alan Dershowitz, the world’s shittiest man, other than that he should never be heard from, anywhere, ever again.



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December 9, 2018

Galatoire's fires Gilberto Eyzaguirre for "patting a waitress on her back," New Orleans revolts! PLUS History of NOLA's most eccentric restaurant (Times-Picayune, July 2002)


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Galatoire's fires Gilberto Eyzaguirre for "patting a waitress on her back," New Orleans revolts! PLUS History of NOLA's most eccentric restaurant (Times-Picayune, July 2002)



Editor's note:
Every now and again, a story emerges that makes it impossible to deny that New Orleanians are passionate about restaurants in ways that others are not. Early this month, it was news that regulars of La Boulangerie, an Uptown bakery, are apoplectic over minor changes instituted by its new owner, Donald Link.
Many readers spoke out to say the tale brought to mind this story about Galatoire's.
Originally published in the Times-Picayune in July 2002, it chronicles the firing of a longtime Galatoire's waiter - and the angst the dismissal triggered among the restaurant's devoted regulars.
The piece achieved what amounted to virality in the pre-social media age. Letters to the editor poured in. National publications parachuted down to cast light on the spectacle. Dramatic readings of the regulars' written complaints were staged - and quickly sold-out.
The story ran under the headline "Creole contretemps," and it is republished here just as it was in 2002.
***

In 1949, Kenneth Holditch traveled with his father from Mississippi to New Orleans for what would turn out to be a life-changing meal of trout amandine at Galatoire's.
(now that's what i call a lede!  Holditch is an erudite New Orleans' academician, who also holds some responsibility for having Conferacy of Dunces published. - ed.)
He remembers the meal vividly, particularly what he calls "the elegance and skill of the waiters."
Fifteen years after that first visit, Holditch left his job in Memphis and joined the faculty at the University of New Orleans so he could "live in this unique city and dine at Galatoire's whenever I wished," as he explained it in a recent letter to the restaurant's nine-member board of directors.
And dine he has, often at a twice-weekly pace and, for the past 20 years or so, usually as the customer of his favorite waiter, Gilberto Eyzaguirre.
Eyzaguirre, "Gilbert" to his legion of customers, was fired from Galatoire's on April 27 after a female employee filed a sexual harassment complaint against him. It was the second such complaint filed against the waiter by a different employee in less than two months.
If this were a story about anywhere else but New Orleans, or perhaps anyplace else but Galatoire's, that would be the end of it. Instead, it was only the beginning.
Galatoire's General Manager Melvin Rodrigue declined to comment on the particulars of Eyzaguirre's dismissal.

"Even if Gilberto's not with us anymore, we have an obligation to him and the rest of our employees to keep that information confidential," he said.

Galatoire's files may be confidential, but Eyzaguirre's dismissal is hardly a secret. And his popularity among customers is enduring.
The firing is what occasioned Holditch's letter, which was not a fan's note but an impassioned protest. The treatise was written on May 20, 2002. A few days later, it was delivered in a bound volume along with 123 others to the Galatoire's board.
The letters, many of which were written by prominent New Orleans doctors, lawyers, judges and business people, have been posted on www.welovegilberto.com, a Web site devoted to the cause of persuading Galatoire's management to rehire Eyzaguirre. The list of letter writers is impressive; Pulitzer Prize-winning author Richard Ford and noted Louisiana State University historian David Culbert are among them.
"The purpose of this letter is to request that the members of the Board of Management of Galatoire's find a means to bring Gilbert back into the fold," former U.S. Attorney Harry Rosenberg wrote.
Many of the writers express displeasure with what the volume's opening page calls the "peremptory firing." But to read the letters as a whole is to realize that Eyzaguirre's supporters are concerned about much more than their favorite waiter's job status.

In his letter, Holditch echoes the concerns of many when he bemoans the changes that have occurred at Galatoire's since Rodrigue, 29, became the first non-Galatoire family member to be named general manager and chief operating officer of the restaurant five years ago. The most seismic of those changes was the controversial renovation that was completed in 1999. With the renovation came new dining rooms upstairs and the opportunity to reserve tables, a first in Galatoire's nearly century-old history.

"I felt almost the same way when they opened upstairs," Robert Barnwell, a letter writer who first dined at Galatoire's 50 years ago, said of Eyzaguirre's firing. "It was like when Brooks Brothers opened 40 stores all over the United States. I liked it when there was only just one."
When viewed through the prism of Galatoire's overall makeover, Holditch writes, Eyzaguirre's firing "has made many of us 'old-timers' aware of the fact that something drastic is afoot, a renovation not only of the physical features of the classic old Creole eatery, but a renovation of its very soul."
. . . . . . .
There's no such thing as a subtle change at Galatoire's, at least not in the eyes of its most ardent customers.
The restaurant's food is a testament to the virtues of trend resistance, and the kitchen's renderings of classic French-Creole dishes are hard to surpass. It's tempting to imagine the best of them -- trout amandine, souffle potatoes, stuffed eggplant, shrimp remoulade, oysters Rockefeller -- tasting exactly as they did in 1905, the year Frenchman Jean Galatoire bought Victor's Restaurant on Bourbon Street and gave it his family's name.

Galatoire's is remarkably well preserved, though it actually has the feel of being older than it is. Its majestic atmosphere is derived not just from the tiled floors, 19th-century chandeliers, polished brass and tuxedoed servers, but from the sense that those things extend from traditions rooted deep in New Orleans' exotic past.

It's a restaurant one can envision existing nowhere else so easily as Paris, the world's capital of sophistication, and many of the people who are upset about Eyzaguirre's firing are equally upset that Galatoire's management would allow this elegant luster to be tarnished by, among other things, relaxing the dress code.

"The last time I was in there -- I've only been there once since Gilberto left, which is unusual for me -- there were people sitting at the table next to us who looked as though they should have been dining at the counter at Woolworth's," said Holditch.

"I don't mean to sound elitist. But on the other hand, when you go to a nice restaurant, I think you ought to treat it as the kind of temple of food that it is."

The restaurant has been subject to some culinary tinkering over the years. The restaurant only recently unveiled its first printed wine list. Portobello mushrooms are now a vegetable offering. They are the type of changes that would not warrant mention at another restaurant. But nothing goes unnoticed at Galatoire's, which is not so much a restaurant as an institution, complete with a board of directors -- eight Galatoire family members and one non-family member -- charged with overseeing the restaurant's operations.
Constancy is part of the allure, and the regulars, many of whom were introduced to Galatoire's by their parents and grandparents, and who are now taking their own children and grandchildren, find comfort in the familiar details.
In his letter to the Galatoire's board, Thomas Uskali recalled a meal he ate at the restaurant in 1994 with chef Louis Arbot and Dr. Brobson Lutz.
"Gilberto served Chef Arbot 'the best Sazerac in memory,' and saw to it that our table ate exceedingly well, with inspired choices both on and off the menu," Uskali recalled.
Rosenberg, another Eyzaguirre customer, first started eating at Galatoire's in the early 1950s with his parents.
"I still walk in and have that sort of visceral gastronomic sensation," he said.
It's a restaurant where management has agonized over whether or not to buy a toaster for fear that it would change the quality of the bread served with the oysters en brochette. In 1992, the decision to start accepting credit cards caused an uproar. Holditch recently noticed that the stuffed eggplant started to arrive without the eggplant skin.

"It's still just as good, but I miss that eggplant skin," he said.

Nashville businessman Gary Smith was one of many people who protested the restaurant's decision in the mid-1990s to switch from hand-chopped ice to the machine-made variety.

Smith has been traveling to New Orleans with his wife, Cathy, every six weeks since 1968.

"I call them eating trips," he said. These trips always include two or three meals at Galatoire's. For the past 18 years, the Smiths were served exclusively by Eyzaguirre.
In fact, for the Smiths, each of whom wrote a letter supporting Eyzaguirre, finding out that their waiter isn't going to be in town for one of their visits is enough to make them change their plans.

"He's that important," Smith said, and by way of explanation asked: "You know how you feel when you're halfway through your second martini? That's how I'd feel when I'd enter Galatoire's and I'd see Gilbert."
Many of the people who wrote in support of Eyzaguirre liken eating at Galatoire's to being part of a "club." Prerequisites for membership would include longtime regular patronage; a steadfast devotion to Galatoire's rituals (i.e., eating lunch every Friday, or early evening dinner on Sundays); and, the ultimate status signifier, having a special relationship with a waiter.

For years, ordinary citizens have complained that privileged insiders have been allowed to circumvent the line in front of Galatoire's to gain easy access to its downstairs dining room. That may well be, but legend has it that Galatoire's old first-come, first-served policy was so unbending that Charles De Gaulle's request to have a table reserved was denied.
Club membership, if you want to call it that, is supposed to be accompanied by certain privileges, which is part of what is driving the discord sparked by Eyzaguirre's firing. Many regulars simply can't believe that action was taken without their consent.

"We're all terribly upset, all of his customers," Marda Burton said of Eyzaguirre shortly after the firing. A longtime regular, Burton is collaborating with Holditch on a book about Galatoire's history.

"The loss of your waiter after 22 years, it's just kind of a shock," Burton said. "And I think the customers should have some kind of say in this."
Galatoire's service staff has a relatively large concentration of career waiters who bring to the table requisite amounts of expertise, arrogance and savoir faire.

They've traditionally been granted a wide berth in Galatoire's dining room. Over the years, waiters have been known to actually cook off-the-menu specials for valued customers. And before the restaurant switched to full-time bartenders in 1999, they mixed drinks -- usually with a heavy hand.

"I walked out of there once so soused I got into an argument with a hitching post," recalled riverboat pilot Capt. Clarke "Doc" Hawley, who ate his first dinner at Galatoire's in 1959 with "Dinner at Antoine's" author Frances Parkinson Keyes.
Today, the waiters are still valuable assets, as they take pride in dispensing wisdom on the best selections from a voluminous menu when quality is often dependent on the freshness of seafood.
. . . . . . .
By all accounts, Eyzaguirre, 56, was a deft waiter who knew how to win the favor of customers.

"I think he saw waitering as a profession," Uskali said. "I had been with Gilbert for 14 years, and that included almost four years in Florida, coming back every few months or so, and he still remembered odd little bits.

"I brought my mother a couple of times, and he remembered her name. He was a throwback to how we assume things used to be."

"Gilbert always remembered your name and your family's name and your children," Holditch said. "When I've needed somebody to drive me to the hospital or something, he's done it."

"I can think of no other server who could surpass him," Barnwell wrote of Eyzaguirre in his letter, "unless it is the Canadian VIA Rail's Chaleur dining car steward, Cyril Landry."

But this year, Eyzaguirre ran into difficulties.

On March 3, he received a written notice from Galatoire's management for "purposely patting a waitress on her back which also had the effect of her dropping several beers on the floor."

The notice went on to say that "sexual harassment is not permitted by law" and that any further sexual harassment complaints filed against Eyzaguirre would result in his termination. Soon after came the second complaint, and his dismissal.

While many avoided the issue, a sizable handful of Eyzaguirre's letter-writing supporters chose to address the reason for his firing. While none could claim to have better than second-hand knowledge of the particulars surrounding the dismissal, the waiter's dazzling performance on the dining room floor was often enough for them to cast doubt on the legitimacy of the sexual harassment allegations.

For much of the 20th century, the Galatoire's dining room has been a place run by men, filled with men and catering largely to men. It is only in the last decade that women were hired to work on the wait staff, and it is one of the many examples cited by the restaurant's old guard as a change for the worse.

It was in this environment that Eyzaguirre honed his craft and rose to the level of a near-legend among the regulars. Some of those regulars even praised the qualities that may not have served Eyzaguirre well in the new Galatoire's.
"Gilbert's Latino, he's gorgeous," said Burton, who has a hard time believing her waiter would be capable of doing anything untoward. "He's flirtatious with his customers, and we all love it."

Burton's letter was fairly typical of many written by the regulars, whose views on sexual harassment, far from reflecting a 21st century ethic, often seem to emanate from the same Old World sentiments that inform their love of the restaurant and its anachronistic ways.

"Having been in the academic world, I know what a really slippery slope this business of sexual harassment is," said Holditch, who likened Galatoire's male-dominated, banter-filled waiter culture to that of a sports locker room.

"If you go into a situation like that, I think you need to sort of be prepared for what's going to happen," he continued. "Even if they are hiring waitresses, this is basically a man's world, that waiter situation. And I must say that generally I prefer waiters."

Holditch said the letter writers are "asking for a hearing and they're suggesting, and I think this is true, that there was a rush to judgment."

And Richard J. Tyler wrote: "Obviously, we are not privy to the events that led to his termination. I can tell you, however, that the word on the street is that his discharge was for insubstantial conduct that has been blown out of proportion."

For his part, Eyzaguirre has helped advance conspiracy speculation. He denies any wrongdoing and characterizes the circumstances surrounding his dismissal as a set-up devised to get rid of him. He claims that Rodrigue resents his popularity among Galatoire's customers.

"The waiters make the restaurant, not the managers," he said. "Some people feel that the waiters have too much power."

Eyzaguirre said the complaint that got him fired stemmed from nothing more than his touching the hand of a female bartender in order to get past her in the restaurant's kitchen.

"My bottom line is I didn't become a sexual harasser in two months," he said. "What about the other 23 years?"

Rodrigue would not respond directly to Eyzaguirre's characterizations.

"What he chooses to tell his loyal following is up to him," Rodrigue said. "We're in an unfortunate position because we can't disclose what we have."

But a lawyer for one of the victims of Eyzaguirre's alleged advances begs to differ with the waiter's account.

While none of the sexual harassment complainants has sought the spotlight, the person who filed the second written complaint, the one that lead to Eyzaguirre's dismissal, responded to requests for comment through Anthony Glorioso, her family's lawyer.

"Would Galatoire's fire him if it wasn't significant?" he said. "It's not like Gilberto did something and she ran off crying and filed (a sexual harassment complaint) right away. He wouldn't stop. She even asked him to. He wouldn't stop, so she gave in. She said, 'I've got to tell somebody. I want to work here.' "

Glorioso, who said his client is a college student, added, "I think that Galatoire's is very fortunate in this situation. It could have been a lot worse for them."

Chris Ansel agrees with the dismissal. His grandfather was a Galatoire, and he worked at the restaurant for seven years. Today, he sits on the Galatoire's board.
Ansel has listened to customers worry over the restaurant's mystique for years, particularly when change was afoot. He appreciates the interest of the regulars, but he said there was nothing vague about Eyzaguirre's situation.
"There are rules and regulations on the books, and we have to follow them," he said. "I remember years ago when segregation came in. A lot of customers asked my grandfather, 'What are you going to do?' He said, 'We're going to obey the law.' "
. . . . . . .
When Rodrigue took over management of Galatoire's, he was effectively appointed head of the club without being offered membership into it. A brief history printed on the menu lists Galatoire family members David Gooch, Justin Frey and Michele Galatoire as the restaurant's managers, with no mention of Rodrigue.

He was hired with a mandate to increase revenues for a growing number of family shareholders, and even some of his detractors will admit that he has been successful in this mission. But the changes that have transpired under his watch have not always endeared him to the old-line regulars.

"I knew when I interviewed that (Galatoire's) needed a whole lot of help. The wiring in the walls looked like spaghetti," Rodrigue said. "People always say, 'Don't fix what's not broke.' Well, how do they you know what's broke?"

In many ways, Rodrigue's mandate was bound to bump up against Galatoire's waiter-driven culture. If all of your oldest customers like everything the same -- including their waiters -- the agent of change isn't going to be the most popular person in the room.

Thus in many of the letters, it doesn't take long for the subject of Eyzaguirre's firing to give way to conspiracy theories about a power struggle between Rodrigue and the waiters.

There is no question that the waiters at Galatoire's have power. Even after being fired, the years of accumulated good will left Eyzaguirre in what his supporters seemed to believe was a position of influence. One prominent local lawyer even asked to go off the record before admitting that he occasionally used waiters other than Eyzaguirre when he visited Galatoire's. More than one lawyer refused to comment on the matter due to the fact that they had been giving Eyzaguirre legal advice.

Lutz, a letter-writer and fierce Eyzaguirre advocate, paints the waiter's firing as merely the endgame of a Rodrigue power play.

"This was an opportunity for (Galatoire's) to get rid of somebody who was perhaps more popular than the restaurant itself," Lutz said. "I think Gilberto is a masterful artist, and I don't think Melvin had the management ability to handle him. Gilberto probably made more money than Melvin."

In a rageful, exclamation point-laden three-page letter, Galatoire's fixture Mickey Easterling takes exception with, among many other things, what she calls the management's "overt effort to get rid of all (one by one) the long-term dedicated wait staff by assigning them" to work in the upstairs dining room, a move Easterling claims serves the dual purpose of chasing off the "old-timers" who insist on eating in the original dining room downstairs.

It's a common complaint among Eyzaguirre supporters. Some feel that Rodrigue would rather fill tables with quick-eating tourists than with long-standing regulars who have the habit of lingering for hours on end. Eyzaguirre's firing is simply an extreme manifestation of a larger strategic plan at Galatoire's, their thinking goes.
But for these conspiracy theorists to be correct, Galatoire's had to decide that firing its most experienced waiters is the key to its financial future -- certainly an unorthodox business strategy.

Rodrigue himself dismisses the theory as a claim too absurd to dignify.

"It's what this restaurant has been built around, the relationship forged between the waiter and the customer," he said. "We want that to go away like we want a hole in our head. It's what we are."
. . . . . . .

Capt. Hawley was among many regulars to send his letter directly to Galatoire's management immediately after Eyzaguirre's dismissal. In response, Hawley received a note signed by Rodrigue and John B. Gooch, the chairman of Galatoire's board.


"Based on your letter and others received from interested customers, the Board and management have conducted a complete review of the situation with Gilberto Eyzaguirre," the response letter read. "We do not believe that any further action is warranted."

But even as Galatoire's management stood firmly by its decision to fire Eyzaguirre, the protest letters continued to pour in to the restaurant and to Holditch, who had taken responsibility for compiling the letters in a bound volume.
From the outset, the organizers proved adept at marshaling support for their cause. Holditch said artist George Dureau even offered to design signs for a protest that was discussed, but never took place.

Everyone involved waited anxiously for Galatoire's board to meet in early June to discuss, among other things, the letter writers' concerns.

Rodrigue, who is not a board member but attends its meetings, said the board voted unanimously to support his decision.

"We made a good decision," said Rodrigue.
Lawyer Glorioso agrees.

"If they hire him back, they're really opening themselves up to liability," he said. "I don't care if they get a letter from God, they're not going to do it."

When asked how he felt about the news, Lutz responded, "I don't know. I'm still in healing mode. You go through stages with any sort of tragedy in your life."

Lutz, like many of Eyzaguirre's supporters, wouldn't commit to boycotting the restaurant.

"I fully intend to go back -- if they'll let me," he said "But I don't know what it's going to be in a month or a year. You hope that things change for the better. When they change for the worse, they don't usually last."

Holditch mentions the song "The Night They Drove Old Dixie Down" to illustrate what he feels is happening to Galatoire's.

He's still committed to finishing the book he's writing with Burton, but he can't bring himself to return to the restaurant he loves as much as New Orleans itself.





Gilberto Eyzaguirre


Galatoire's Restaurant
For anyone familiar with the famed Galatoire’s Restaurant on Bourbon Street in the heart of the French Quarter, Gilberto’s reputation precedes him. It was during his twenty-five year tenure as a waiter at there that he made cocktails for his customers, which was part of the Galatoire’s tradition. The restaurant has seen quite a few changes in recent years, and the hiring of bartenders is one of them. But Gilberto is from the era of Galatoire’s service when waiters chopped ice from blocks, prepared Café Brulot tableside and became notorious for their generously mixed cocktails served to their devoted customers. And what customer wouldn’t be devoted to a waiter who could write their name in flames on the tablecloth in front of them as he prepared a Café Brulot? At Galatoire’s, beloved waiters not only gave excellent service, they poured excellent drinks.
Date of interview:
2005-04-01 00:00
Interviewer:
Amy Evans

Bang bang that awful sound – TP names the baby who shot…down


When she “was five and he was six” and they “rode on horses made of sticks”, surely they didn’t ride into Galatoire’s to make the “awful sound”!
Today’s Times Picayune reports the  identity of the “baby” who “shot…down” in Galatoire’s gun mystery, owner revealed:
On Friday afternoon, the convivial hum of a dozen simultaneous conversations in the sanctum sanctorum of New Orleans’ social set, Galatoire’s, was pierced by the unfamiliar crackle of a gunshot.
Luckily, no one was injured by the errant bullet, which apparently was fired when a purse containing a .38-caliber pistol fell off a table near the foyer and went off when it hit the floor. The bullet lodged harmlessly in a panel of black wainscoting. Police came and took an incident report. No one was arrested.

WATCH Smokestack Lightning BBQ - i'm famous for discovering Big "S" Grill, Memphis, and beautiful, epicene J.C. Hardaway (RIP), waiter, busboy, bartender, chef


I'm famous for discovering The Big "S" Grill on Dunnavant, Memphis, TN, and the beautiful, epicene J.C. Hardaway (RIP): waiter, busboy, bartender, and chef; ineffable, and indefatigable, having come from Hawkins ... then i invited Andria Lisle, and she, like me, became addicted and/or abducted, told her friends, and well, it's alarming how people and places go away and then other people forget to mention them.
Eric Lolis, @lolisericelie, NO food author, who wrote "smokestack lightning," indispensable BBQ book, turned me on first.

"Smokestack Lightning: Memphis Pit Masters"

That's J.C. from Big "S" on the right!

Smokestack Lightning: Memphis Pit Masters - Raymond Robinson (Cozy Corner Barbecue) and J. C. Hardaway (Big S Lounge) serve up their origin stories and talk meat
Smokestack Lightning | PBS America
Smokestack Lightning - premieres 9pm, Wednesday 16 October 2013 PBS America | Virgin Media 243 | Sky 534 For some, barbecuing is more than a culinary skill -- it is a way of life. David Bransten's film is a celebration of the time-honoured tradition of cooking food over a barbecue. To the uninitiated, barbecuing is the simplest form of cooking. With no need for pots or pans, all the chef needs to do is to place some meat over a fire and wait for things to happen. As this programme demonstrates, however, the barbecue is rather more complicated -- indeed, for some enthusiasts it has assumed the status of an art form. Introduced by Lolis Eric Elie, author of a book on the subject, the film looks at the art of barbecuing, its importance to American food cultureand its roots within the African-American and Mexican communities as well as with European immigrants. Shot in North Carolina, South Carolina, Texas, Kansas City and Memphis, the film looks at the different methods of barbecuing, from the restaurants catering for hundreds of customers to the rural families who simply enjoy food prepared alfresco. Historical and cultural context is offered by New York restaurateur Danny Meyer and author Calvin Trillin, who discuss the barbecue's significance at the Big Apple Barbecue Block Party, an annual festival held in Madison Square Park in celebration of authentic American cultural and musical traditions.
Sam Price (owner for 51 years) and his daughter, Aniese CannonPhotographs by Justin Fox Burks
Sam Price (owner for 51 years) and his daughter, Aniese Cannon






*Fun Memphis Food Fact

Big S Memphis
The Big "S" Grill


Image result for The Big "S" Grill
J.C. Hardaway RIP

I don't hide [my recipes]. I let them have them, but they tell me, "You're lying. That ain't the way you fix it." I say, "That's just the way I fix it." They don't want to believe it. God Give everybody so much. If barbecue is yours, that's it. – J.C. Hardaway

J.C. Hardaway


Essay by Joe York
The plywood pig hanging perpendicular to McLemore names the place: Candy Man Lounge. The few parking spaces in front are as empty as the lot next door. Black iron bars block all the entrances. Midday, midweek, and nothing is happening here.
Before the Candy Man moved in and crapped out, the store housed Hawkin’s Grill. Started in 1938, Hawkin’s turned out shoulder after slow-cooked shoulder for the better part of six decades. It was there that J. C. Hardaway, one of Memphis’ world-renowned pit masters, got his start at the age of thirteen delivering orders on his bicycle.
Before long, J.C. traded in his pedals for the pits. He cooked hamburgers and chopped the meat as it came off the coals, all the while soaking up secrets and learning the tricks of a trade that would feed him and his community for years to come.
In 1993, J.C. took his tongs and walked around the corner and down Dunnavant to the Big “S” Grill. Now that J.C. sends his smoke up their stacks, they’ve added his name to the sign and his barbecue to the board, which for years sold only soul food. Listening to J.C., one wonders if there is a difference.
“God gives everybody so much. If barbecue is yours, that’s it.”
Transcript

SUBJECT: J.C. Hardaway
DATE
: February 19, 2002
INTERVIEWER: Brian Fisher
—–
In the restaurant, Hawkins Grill. Eighteen, but I started at 13, 14, riding a bicycle delivering orders. At that time they didn’t allow children [to work] in restaurants until they were of age. And, at the age of 18. So after I reached 18, I went inside and started working around, and started looking around and started cooking. Hawkins Grill, they were my godparents.

Big S Grill

Did you try to spend time in the kitchen when you were younger? Did you get shooed away?
I think it might be that it was in my blood. Just in me that I would learn it. I was around it. I just picked it up.
Cook at home?
Nothing but regular food. Soul food. Home cooked food. No barbecue just home cooked food.
Beginnings in the Hawkins Kitchen Frying hamburgers and selling sandwiches, chopping up barbecue but I wasn’t cooking it.
Profession from the Beginning?
Right.
Who did you learn to cook from at Hawkins?
No teacher. Just picked it up looking. Just looking. We didn’t take time to teach you. You just picked it up.
They said “here’s the job”?
Here’s the job and if you couldn’t do it you had to go I guess.
Who was in charge of barbecue at Hawkins?
Mrs. Hawkins.
How long have you been cooking?
Since I was 18. 59 years.
How long was Hawkins Grill open?
From 1938 and I left in ’93. Big S since ’93. It’ll be nine years in October.
Big S Grill 


Enjoy commercial cooking?
Yes. I enjoy cooking for the public. It’s just a part of me. At the age I am now, I don’t need nothing else but that basis.
A favorite part of cooking for the public?
I can do pastry. Most anything. But I do barbecue especially if I have a party I’ll fix some barbecue beans, spaghetti, potato salad. That line of food, party food. Even cold plates, you know, if necessary.
Did you do catering at Hawkins?
No.
Where’d you learn to do catering? I just picked it up. I put it together myself. It just have been my style of life, cooking.
Most people just don’t learn pastry. No, that’s what my wife says. I’ve got so many cakes and pies on order now that they’ll never get them. We’ll I told her I’m not thinking about them. When’ll he get to it? We say whenever he feels like it, he’ll fix it but he ain’t in no hurry. It’s not my job. I let them know I stopped doing all that.
I took cake decorating at Sears back some years ago. Much, much, a long time ago. I don’t even know where my utensils I use. I couldn’t find them even if I wanted to.
Commercial cooking give experiences or connect you to parts of the world that you never thought about before you started cooking? I have them all over the country. Overseas and everywhere. Wanting to hear about me. They want to know how I do this and that.
Call or write?
They ask me am I going to be in and some of their friends send them by.
People call from all over the world?
When can I get with you? I want to taste that world famous barbecue. I never knew that I’d be world famous. They say, you put everything into yours. You don’t throw it up and sell it. You take pride with you food and your orders and get them out right. Whether it’s one sandwich or fifteen sandwiches, they all taste- I fix them all the same.
Has Your Cooking and Food Afforded You Chances to Travel?
Yes, I just back from New Orleans . October the 20th, I had to cook for a charity ball for the children. It was at a little college in New Orleans and the mission was J.C. Hardaway barbecue and ten dollars. Pay ten dollars and you get to see the movie- the movie Smokestack Lightening, which I’m in the movie- Cozy Corner is in the movie. The three Memphis people in the movie is Cozy Corner, Big S, that’s me, and Charles Vergo. Cozy Corner and Charles Vergo is Rendezvous and Big S and J.C. and we’re the only three in the movie. So the movie. The movie is on sale now.
Did you ever think that you’d be in a movie?
No. I was flattered when they come from California to make the movie and the book. I’m getting a lot from the book. Because if you buy the book or see the movie, you can get everything out of it.
Your food has gone way beyond Memphis.
I’ve had from Russia , everywhere. I think I’ve had some. There’s no telling. I don’t know. I’m just amazed. Some come up in here where I couldn’t understand what they were saying. One man brought two people from overseas in here I couldn’t understand- I forget what they were- but- I have a lot of them. Every day I get somebody from out of town.
How do they contact you? Call? Come by?
Pick it up on the Internet and they’ve heard about it.
How do they contact you?
They have the number. Using the Internet and the computer. Plus whoever they know in Memphis , they will bring them. I have quite a few customers bring people from out of town all the time.
Directions and Names from the 2000 SFS.
Learned anything about people or customers?
Oh, yes. I have learned a lot about them. I know I have, sure.
—–

You meet all kinds every day. Every time you see. You have to have to have it this way or that way. If they have it your way it tastes better but – most important thing about the food that goes out to customers.
Customer experiences. I let them tell me what they like about it. That the smoke and the sauce and the slaw without that they wouldn’t have a barbecue sandwich. They’ve got it but no taste. Some sauce put on top of it. Sauce it too much and it still makes it worse.
What are you putting into your food that elicits customer statements such as “You put everything into your food.” What gets customers to say this?
Time. I just don’t throw it on the bun. I cook the sauce in.
Time- how long do you spend on a shoulder?
I tell everybody I don’t have a certain time. I just smoke it until I feel like it’s time. You know. Somewhere 6-8, 8 hours. The smoke is really what cooks the meat anyway. Hot smoke.
Wood.
Hickory , white, or red oak. Hickory only comes one but oak comes white and red. So, either one. If you use white oak the meat is white. It never turns the pretty color. If you use hickory on red oak the meat- all the way through- has a very pretty color. The white oak will not give it [color] too it [meat]. Just give it white meat. I never use charcoal. Because you don’t get as much flavor out of it. It’s already been cooked all to pieces to make charcoal. It’s not enough left in it to smoke and nothing to bring it out.
Dried cordwood. Hot fire. Flame. J.C. uses the flame. Get it hot with the flame. Brown it on both sides. Brown it. Keep your fire hot and the smoke’ll cook it and then that wood will keep warm. It’ll blaze up every once and a while. If you leave it open it’ll burn up. But if you slow it down, you get a better piece of meat. I have no idea how they cook their meat with that charcoal. Slow process. In New Orleans they tell me the smoke is on one side and the meat is on the other [in the pit] and the smoke has to travel over there. There’s not enough smoke in it. In New Orleans , they’re putting the meat on one side of the pit and the fire on the other side. And the smoke comes over to the meat. That’s where they get their smoke in it. But that’s not enough smoke.
BBQ vs. Fast Food
It’s not very good barbecue [fast food barbecue]. Why do folks pursue barbecue? Well they see it coming off the pits. They know how its cooked and they it’s more expensive that way than making a hamburger patty and throwing on there already come in pre-cooked.
Seeing you cooking means something to customers?
It means that it’s right out of the pit.
What do you hope customers say?
That they always’ say, “That’s the best I’ve ever eaten.”
Has Cooking at Hawkins and the Big S allowed you to do something that you never imagined?
Yes, cause if anybody told me that I would still be in barbecue I would say no I wouldn’t. I sure wouldn’t. I didn’t know- after it got to be a big thing after they come by to interview me for the book Smokestack Lightening then I thought there must be something good about it.
Movie?
That’s right. I wouldn’t. Never dreamed that I’d be in a movie about cooking barbecue. I just hate that they didn’t get it all at the Hawkins Grill where I was raised, you know. I was there at the grill and I would loved for them to have had the praise but it didn’t work out.
Hawkins Grill- did it close in 1993?
I left and they kept it open somebody else come and leased it.
Still called the Hawkins Grill?
No. Another man got it [after several leases] and changed it [name] the Candyman Lounge. He still advertises Hawkins Grill barbecue though. Commercial sent some men out after they heard about the barbecue I was doing and had them to taste it. Well it sure don’t taste like no J.C. Hardaway barbecue. If it tastes like this I sure don’t see how he got all the praise. The guy was posing as me. But it didn’t taste like nothing. That’s what I said. It didn’t taste like what it should have tasted like. They didn’t know my slaw and my barbecue sauce. None of that. They left and have made a nightclub out of it. Hawkins Grill 2. They didn’t want to turn Hawkins Grill lose. They didn’t make no hickory and he had to get out. And this last man was Candy Man. He wouldn’t do right. Wouldn’t pay his rent. So they had to let him go. Now it’s up- I think they tried to buy it several times. My godmother wouldn’t sell it. My godmother’s 97, see, now and at that time she was a few years younger. Now she wants to sell it. But his young man he don’t want to buy it, he wants to lease it to have a sports bar. So that’s what they have down there now. If it ever opens. He’s been over a year trying to get it open. I’ve never seen nothing take that long to open.
How many days a week do you still cook?
I’m here seven. I know that I can meet you this morning because I don’t have any specific thing going. Most of my business that mean anything, are call ins. Like last night, if anybody wanted me to meet them today for lunch. I don’t have a straight lunch period cause down in this area it’s off beat it’s not a through street where cars travel like McLemore. Now Hawkins was on McLemore, a through street. You could pick up all kinds of money. It’s quieter down here. I have walk-ins [customers]. They’ll smell me cooking and they’ll come and after they’ll call and get so many sandwiches.
Do you do walk-ins at night?
I would, but I got sick in ’99 and I stayed off three months, March of 2000. I had a sugar attack. I’m diabetic and I didn’t know it. I new I was messed up some kind of way about it. That bad. But I was putting up too much time- 24 hours. I didn’t think I could break down. Now I come here at ten and today I will stay here until 7 or something like that. ‘Til the people start dying.
Volume.
How much do you cook each week? Approximately 125 lbs. a week and no ribs. That’s another thing. Ribs, they want me to have ribs, but they’re not an everyday seller and they’ll dry out. Shoulder will not dry out and sell every day.
James Willis
He cooked on the corner and I was the delivery boy. Leonard’s was opposite Hawkins. They called it black barbecue. Leonard’s was called, at that time, the white folks’ barbecue. Where they had the black folks come over to Hawkins. At that time it was segregated. My mother wanted bought sandwiches from Leonard’s before I was old enough to drive. Before Hawkins opened. People in the neighborhood, we had to go to the back steps or the side door.
Side.
This is a little hall and the window was there. You’d pick up your stuff and in there was dining room.
Custom Cooking.
I do that now. Charge .50 or whatever you want a pound. When I was at Hawkins, it was .35 a pound. Now I’ll get .50. I think that I started getting .50 before I came up here. But if you want me to cook you some ribs or a shoulder- a slab or two of ribs- I won’t even fire my pit up for that. Now if I’m already cooking, but just to fire it up, somebody’s got to have enough meat. I sell slaw. I sell barbecue sauce. Anything they want to buy. Sauce. Slaw. .50 a pound. A ten-pound piece meat. That’s just $5. That’s not worth it. But say if you’re cooking for yourself and throw it in there, that’s money. You’ve made something. If I’ve got enough people- like five people- I’d cook for that. That’d be all right $25. That’s not bad while you’re working. Don’t take nothing to stick it in. But you don’t’ fire your pit for not 2 or 3 pounds of meat.
Still Make Your Own Sauce
Oh, yes. Sauce, slaw, everybody wants the secret. Do you have an understudy? You’re going to ask me that part aren’t you? I refuse to train. You can’t get anything now but drugs and even they come in wanting to do, they walk off. I wouldn’t want a girl. I know I’d want a man cause he would be more stable. He would be more holding a job up. A woman would get married and her husband tell her to come home. A man can’t do that. Like me. I’m determined not to leave. I’m holding it down. You don’t find many like- you broke the mold.
Recipes written down?
Oh, yes. They’re supposed to have it, but they say you’re lying. That’s not what you put in it. I tell everybody to do everything and they tell people that they cannot get it to taste like yours. Just give some of yours. Make me a ball, because I don’t want that mess that you told me to fix. My godmother always told me when I was growing up they would come into the café. Figure how long I’ve bee having this- experience- the people liking the barbecue. And, way before she thought about retiring and I supervised a couple of paper companies after I come out school I was working management at two paper companies. I never did leave two or three days at the grill [Hawkins]. I worked three or four nights, especially weekends. But I got married and just worked part time. But I never missed a week of being in that place [Hawkins Grill]. So, when I would go on vacation, when I started working a little bit more. People would come there and say- look in- and they didn’t see me and they’d say can we help you? And my godmother would say they’d say no “we’re looking for J.C.” We’ll he’s on vacation but we be back when he come back. She’s say we can fix it. No, uh, uh. You can’t fix it. She’d come over. Now look, come here. This is the slaw. This is the barbecue sauce and this is everything that he uses. Now why would his taste different from mine? So she told me one day. Baby, I can’t understand that. You use the same thing we use. There’s something about that. My wife says it’s just a gift to you- something about your hands. It’s the same thing. Something with your hands that’s not with everybody else’s hands.
Recipes
I don’t hide them. I let them have them but they tell me “you’re lying.” That ain’t the way you fix it. I say that’s just the way I fix it. They don’t want to believe it. God Give everybody so much if barbecue is yours that’s it.
Favorite Thing about Work?
I like good times. I like to go out. But when I’m on the job, I’m on the job. When I leave I go dancing. When I’m messing around, I’m messing around. But, then, when I’m working, I’m working. People say come out here and talk to us. I say, I don’t have time. I’ve got to have my slaw and barbecue sauce ready for the weekend. I don’t have time. I don’t drop my work and sit down and get behind then go look crazy. I never run out of nothing.
Sauce
I make a gallon every time. A hot gallon of barbecue sauce. I make three times as much mild as I do hot. My hot is hot. A drop is hot. Put me a little bit. J.C. you put more than a drop on there I can tell. A drop will do of yours they say.
Vacation
When I’m not there, they won’t accept it. They couldn’t make no money if I leave. When I go on vacation they lock the kitchen up. They close down. We’re not going to try to fix that stuff J.C. We’re not going to mess up nothing. We make it taste like his now. No.
Daily Volume
Some days I could have a hundred- a hundred barbecue sandwiches. And the least I fix is 25. I have man start coming. He comes every day. Now I said “please, don’t make yourself sick.” He wouldn’t let me hurt his feelings. He came right back the next day. He used to be one of my customers down on Hawkins. He said I didn’t know where you moved to. He was here yesterday. I said, Lord, you’re going to hurt yourself. No I ain’t. No I ain’t. I’ve been out about 8 years now I’m getting back in it. I can’t hurt myself right now. I’ve got a long time to go. I’ve got to get it back in my system.
Date of interview:
2002-01-01 00:00
Interviewer:
Brian Fisher

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The Big S: A Very Memphis Bar

The Memphis Flyer

Jun 8, 2017
A couple weeks ago, we had a full-on Memphis meltdown after some nerd from Nashville began trolling us with a series of misspelled tweets and non-applicable GIFs (full disclosure: I am Nashville-born and mostly Nashville-raised, and this cretin offended even me). It was absolutely maddening, but here's the deal: That guy doesn't get it and never will, and that's just fine with me because that means he stays the hell out of Memphis and the hell out of bars like the Big S Grill. The Big S is Memphis through and through and embodies all this city has to offer, and it does it all in a tiny, unassuming house next to the train tracks.

1179 Dunnavant is stuck in time. It doesn't look like it has changed anything about itself since the '60s except for the name (formerly it was known as the Hawkins Grill). Indeed, the telephone directory hanging by the front door looked older than I am.

The Big S has six barstools, five tables, and three booths, keeping it intimate. We sat at the bar, where there were holes worn in the fabric from years of boot toes pressing into the sides. The place was dim, lit only by a few red lights. My buddy and I looked at each other. The Big S Grill was a winner.

  barreport_bigs_51a5036.jpg

There are a handful of things that make a bar: the music, the people, and the drinks. A bar doesn't require anything more than that, which is why it baffles the mind that so many bars are terrible. The Big S Grill scores a 10/10 in every category. The jukebox is packed with soul classics, and not one patron in there was under 60. But the drink of choice in the Big S is where the Memphis really comes through. We were served two 40-ounce bottles of beer with a chilled rocks glass and a napkin. A chilled rocks glass and a napkin! I dare you to find a better setup than that.

My friend and I were one of several people in there, but every other patron was an older gentleman. Just like with Ashton Kutcher, the headwear was evenly split between fedoras and trucker hats, but unlike Ashton Kutcher, none of these guys' hats made them look like assholes. In fact, any one of those guys could've been my own grandfather, sitting there with a trucker hat perched on his head, barbecue sauce running down his arms as he ate his pulled pork sandwich at a gritty neighborhood bar. The Big S serves their barbecue from a smoker out front, and although we didn't partake, we were the only ones in there not eating. It looked and smelled incredible.

Like many of these lesser-known dives, the Big S Grill allows folks to bring in their own liquor for a small fee. At a table nearby, three men were passing around a bottle of Svedka. The bartender had brought them beer mugs full of ice in which to make their mixed drinks. A whole beer mug for a vodka drink? Giddy up! My friend noticed one of them wearing a Memphis Tigers shirt and remarked, "I like your shirt." The man replied, "You like the blue? You gotta like the blue if you're in Memphis." While the rest of us entitled jerks have been arguing about the Tigers since halfway through the Pastner era, the loyalty of the men of the Big S Grill has never even faltered.

We paid our tab, a beyond-reasonable $9 for two 40-ounce beers, and as we stood up to leave, the owner walked over and introduced himself. The Big S Grill has been run by the same folks, more or less, since the 1960s. This guy has surely seen the best and worst in people over the years, but greeted us as warmly as he would greet his own grandchildren. He called out, "Y'all come back now, you hear?" — just like in the movies — as we were walking out.

The next time we run across some Nashvillian — or any other city's less-than-stellar example of a citizen — who wants to hurl racial slurs and lame jokes at Memphis, don't let him win. Be glad that he's off making some other city's population dumber. Be happy that he doesn't understand. Be thrilled that we're taking the highest road, all while sitting in a low-ceilinged bar drinking beer with grandpas.
The Big S, 1179 Dunnavant (775-9127)

Meghan Stuthard, try to do, at least, a cursory dive into the next gem, and the people who made it so, before pressing "publish." 

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The Big "S" Grill has the best barbecue sandwich in Memphis. Keep that in mind--it's like saying that a place has the best gumbo in New Orleans.

The place is small, dark, out-of-the-way. There are no crowds, no waiting for an hour before you get a table.

There is one waiter, who is also the busboy, the bartender, and the chef.

His name is J.C. Hardaway, and he is a man with a gift. Over his seventy-odd years, he has perfected the recipe and technique for making a barbecue sandwich.

The sandwich (available hot or mild) is sweet, smoky, spicy, magnificent. It is also a case study in texture, with a soft, toasted bun, crisp, cool slaw, and tender meat .

The beer, although nothing fancy, is ice cold. The burgers, I am told, are also excellent.
Reviewed July 18, 2001
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Payne's Bar-B-Q, Memphis, TN (this is a living William Eggleston tableau) - and when Ron Easley took me here in the early 80s ... it was Ron taking me somewhere that made it weird.  never mind.

 

 

Gilberto Eyzaguirre


Galatoire's Restaurant
For anyone familiar with the famed Galatoire’s Restaurant on Bourbon Street in the heart of the French Quarter, Gilberto’s reputation precedes him. It was during his twenty-five year tenure as a waiter at there that he made cocktails for his customers, which was part of the Galatoire’s tradition. The restaurant has seen quite a few changes in recent years, and the hiring of bartenders is one of them. But Gilberto is from the era of Galatoire’s service when waiters chopped ice from blocks, prepared Café Brulot tableside and became notorious for their generously mixed cocktails served to their devoted customers. And what customer wouldn’t be devoted to a waiter who could write their name in flames on the tablecloth in front of them as he prepared a Café Brulot? At Galatoire’s, beloved waiters not only gave excellent service, they poured excellent drinks.
Date of interview:
2005-04-01 00:00
Interviewer:
Amy Evans

Bang bang that awful sound – TP names the baby who shot…down


When she “was five and he was six” and they “rode on horses made of sticks”, surely they didn’t ride into Galatoire’s to make the “awful sound”!
Today’s Times Picayune reports the  identity of the “baby” who “shot…down” in Galatoire’s gun mystery, owner revealed:
On Friday afternoon, the convivial hum of a dozen simultaneous conversations in the sanctum sanctorum of New Orleans’ social set, Galatoire’s, was pierced by the unfamiliar crackle of a gunshot.
Luckily, no one was injured by the errant bullet, which apparently was fired when a purse containing a .38-caliber pistol fell off a table near the foyer and went off when it hit the floor. The bullet lodged harmlessly in a panel of black wainscoting. Police came and took an incident report. No one was arrested.