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July 30, 2009

Paris Fashion Week: Dunhill shoots for the moon, scores

Paris Fashion Week: Dunhill shoots for the moon, scores

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The Alfred Dunhill spring/summer 2010 collection was shown Saturday on a rotating dais stacked with polished aluminum suitcases and beneath an immense photo of the full moon so detailed that its craters could be easily discerned. As a set piece it was simple and straightforward, instantly evoking the nostalgia of the Art Deco period and luxury travel and at the same time -- and 40 years last week since man first set foot on the moon -- underscoring the idea of using technology to push the boundaries.

Although attempts to infuse new life into legacy brands like Alfred Dunhill (which dates to 1893 and whose clients have included the prince of Wales, Winston Churchill and Truman Capote) can often blow up on the launchpad, under creative director Kim Jones, the British label managed to pull off the equivalent of a lunar landing, sending out one of my favorite collections of the week.

Jones, who had been Twittering in the run-up to the show, called it "faded futurism," and used the opportunity to update some off the brand's signature pieces in new materials. SomeRage_dunhill2 of the pens clipped to jacket pockets were made of what the show notes described as "meteorite and black diamonds," and overnight bags were constructed out of scratch-proof carbon fiber print leather.

But it was the clothes that sent me over the moon -- sport coats and suits in charcoal grays and a wide range of blues from pale (let's call it "lunar") to midnight, with checks, microchecks, stripes and solids in  both color palettes.

Epaulets and silver buttons gave some navy pieces a military flavor (a perennial touchstone for men's collections), with olive drab hacking jackets and khaki-hued safari blazers helping round out the image of the Dunhill man as prepared to take on any task with aplomb. After seeing this collection, it's easy to understand why the label had been rumored early on to succeed Brioni as James Bond's tailor. (That honor, at least for "Quantum of Solace," ultimately went to Tom Ford.)

Prints and patterns have been a recurring motif this week at the Paris shows, but few designers have pulled it off as subtly and elegantly as Jones, who mined the brand's archive for Art Deco prints to translate Rage_dunhill4 into shirting fabrics and ties. My favorite was a vintage "wing mirror" print that hark  back to the early days of the label when it catered to the man who drove that newfangled machine called the automobile.

With the spring/summer collection, Jones has served up what is often missing from today's men's wear: masculine, multipurpose pieces with subtle, stylish details. Throw in the brand's century-plus back story (we men love a good back story) and you've got classy without cartoonish.

Dunhill done right. One giant step for mankind.

-- Adam Tschorn

Photos: Alfred Dunhill spring/summer 2010 men's runway show. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson. Video by Adam Tschorn.


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lvmh lover


Ooooohhh...another Neverfull gets special treatment, this time from the store in Deauville, France. Re-opened in the early part of Summer 2009, this small but quaint boutique boasts fabulous architectural elements that Normandy is famous for. Christened Villa Vuitton, it's definitely high on my agenda list for stores to visit. LVoe it!!!

If it weren't for her Cabas Piano, I would have kicked the living daylights outta her!!! He isssshhhhzzz mine!

Well Mr, Thanks to you, I can't stop myself from reading your blog almost daily. And thanks to you I just went and bought the damier Etole in the middle of summer. Now all I can do is wish for a cool summer night so I can start using it. I would have love to get my hands on the Bordeaux but I was told it's not being release in North American. BOOO!! Now if I only know how to tie a scraf. Never worked with anything as big as a etole before. Any suggestions would be greatly apperiated. Apprently this is what everyone is doing, so here's a picture of some of my LV goods. Keep up the good work. Awww...thanks for sharing, Erik!!! It's people like you who makes blogging about Louis Vuitton all worthwhile. LVoe it!!!


Hmmm...I do LVoe fur but the colour seems a tad bit too vermin for my taste. I received this pic from Bagaholicboy.com ages ago and it seemed to have been buried in my inbox. Well, today is the resurrection and feature of this Fall Winter bag. Made out of mink fur, this Pochette Accesoires will surely turn heads and PETA for sure!

My SA showed me the new colours for the Sprouse Leopard Stole when I was last in the boutique and I must say that I am not so wild about them. I guess I am biased because I LVoe, LVoe, LVoe the colourway on mine.
I am really liking the Pailletes Collection for Fall Winter 2009 2010. I am just so undecided if I should get one. Any thoughts?

I am always thrilled when I see a Celeb decked in Louis Vuitton whilst travelling. Here's Victoria Secret's Miranda Kerr with her Sac Chien in Monogram, Pegase in Damier and the ohhh so wonderful Mahina. LVoe it!!!
While I am roasting in 90 degree weather, Christine from Australia is enjoying her winter with her Stephen Sprouse Leopard Stole. I can't wait to use mine again for this season. That silk and cashmere is absolutely fabulous. Thanks for sharing, C. LVoe it!!!

I dunno who she is but she absolutely fabulous. LVoe it!!! UPDATE: She is Taiwanese actress An Yi Xuan. Thanks, guys!
Paris Fashion Week: Dunhill shoots for the moon, scores | All The Rage | Los Angeles Times
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Feds Search Vegas Properties of Jackson Doctor

As the investigation into Michael Jackson's death continues, authorities searched the Las Vegas home and medical office of Dr. Conrad Murray, Jackson's personal doctor. (July 28)

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First Person: Spaceship Firm Gets Mideast Boost

British billionaire Sir Richard Branson signed a deal Tuesday to sell a third of his space travel startup to a Mideast investment fund. Soon after, Branson took his first ride in WhiteKnightTwo, designed to launch a ship into space. (July 28)

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