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July 17, 2010

french punk wiki and jap gothic and lolita stuff



hi mary, http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User_talk:Maryc


i've been prowling around wiki and wiki commons for months but still am not to sure if i could have asked you this in talk.  I just saw your malc funeral cortege pics for the first time tonight.  I think they're all very impressive, and was wondering besides asking your permission to blog them, if you might be interested in writing a little blurb, as I take it from the credits that you are the photographer. 

if not, just let me know if it's okay for me to post them and what kind of attribution you would like.  my blog's got much fewer rules than wiki, so i'll be happy to let you make your own.

thanks,

maury

Cashforchaos.JPG


Uploaded by user "Maryc" on Thu, 22 Apr 2010 21:47:00 UTC
Added to category on Thu, 22 Apr 2010 21:47:02 UTC
Original image: 3365×2985 pixel; 3.427.817 bytes.
Licensing : CC-BY-SA,GFDL
en:Punk fashion, fr:Mode punk, it:Abbigliamento punk, ja: パンク・ファッション, nl:Punk (mode), pt:Moda punk, th:แฟชั่น พังก์
{{en|'''Punk fashion''' is the [[:en:clothing|]], [[:en:hairstyles|]], [[:en:cosmetics|]], [[:en:jewelry|]], and [[:en:body modification|]]s of the [[:en:punk subculture|]]. Punk fashion varies widely, ranging from [[:en:Vivienne Westwood|]] designs to styles modeled on bands like [[:en:The Exploited|]]. The distinct social dress of other subcultures and art movements, including [[:en:glam rock|]], [[:en:skinheads|]], [[:en:rude boys|]], [[:en:Greaser (subculture)|greasers]], and [[:en:Mod (subculture)|mods]] have influenced punk fashion. Punk fashion has likewise influenced the styles of these groups, as well as those of [[:en:popular culture|]]. Many punks use clothing as a way of making a statement. (→[[:en:Punk fashion|Punk fashion]])}}
{{fr|La '''mode punk''' est l'allure vestimentaire et l'apparence physique que se donnent au milieu des [[:fr:années 1970|]] certains groupes de musique anglais, en particulier les [[:fr:Sex Pistols|]]. (→[[:fr:Mode punk|Mode punk]])}}
{{it|L''''abbigliamento punk''' è la moda tipica della [[:it:punk (cultura)|subcultura punk]]. Nell'idea iniziale dei suoi precursori, lo stile doveva caratterizzarsi come un rifiuto dei canoni della [[:it:moda|]] stessa e delle regole, ma nei fatti l'abbigliamento punk si è diviso in moltissimi sottostili con caratteristiche peculiari. (→[[:it:Abbigliamento punk|Abbigliamento punk]])}}
{{ja|'''パンク・ファッション'''(Punk Fashion)とは、 [[:ja:ファッション|]]の一種。そこから端を発する様々な文化現象を指す語。単に「'''パンク'''」と表記される場合もある。元は[[:ja:パンク・ロック|]]から派生したが、現在では音楽とは別のムーブメントとして認識され、このファッションの愛好者にはパンク・ロックには関心がないものも少なくない。 (→[[:ja:パンク・ファッション|パンク・ファッション]])}}
{{nl|'''Punk''' als [[:nl:mode|]] is de kledij en accessoires die horen bij de [[:nl:punk (cultuur)|punkcultuur]]. (→[[:nl:Punk (mode)|Punk (mode)]])}}
{{pt|A ''' [[:pt:moda|]]''' é, junto à música, o aspecto cultural mais característico e evidente do '''[[:pt:cultura punk|punk]]'''. O termo ''moda'', no entanto, não é bem aceito pela maioria dos punks e influenciados pela cultura punk pois é entendido estritamente como [[:pt:Moda|modismo]], aceitação social, comércio e/ou mera aparência. Costuma-se empregar o termo ''estilo'', com o significado de "roupa como afirmação pessoal" (apesar deste também ser um dos significados da palavra moda), ou mais comumente ainda o termo '''''visual''''', utilizado em quase toda a cultura alternativa brasileira, não somente no meio punk. (→[[:pt:Moda punk|Moda punk]])}}
{{th|'''แฟชั่นสไตล์พังก์''' เป็น [[:th:แฟชั่น|]]แนว[[:th:พังก์|]]เริ่มตั่งแต่ยุคปลายของปี'60 และถิ่นกำเนิดแฟชั่นแนวนี้คือประเทศอังกฤษ สมัยนั้นจะเริ่มในกลุ่มเล็กๆ ในยุคที่มีการปฏิวัติและเหตุจลาจลกลางเมือง ซึ่งแฟชั่นแนวนี้จะออกแนวรุนแรง เช่น มีการเจาะตามร่างกาย การเพ้นท์หรือสัก แฟชั่นแนวนี้จะเน้นโทนสีดำเป็นหลัก นิยมแต่งหน้าและเขียนปากด้วยสีดำ (→[[:th:แฟชั่นพังก์|แฟชั่นพังก์]])}}

[[en:Punk fashion]]
[[fr:Mode punk]]
[[it:Abbigliamento punk]]
[[ja:パンク・ファッション]]
[[nl:Punk (mode)]]
[[pt:Moda punk]]
[[th:แฟชั่นพังก์]]
en:Punk fashion, fr:Mode punk, it:Abbigliamento punk, ja: パンク・ファッション, nl:Punk (mode), pt:Moda punk, th:แฟชั่น พังก์


Punk Fashion



Punks in the 1980s.

The Punk Fashion dress is the look and appearance that will give the mid 1970 Sex Pistols. certain groups of English music, especially

This is a reversal of all values and all weather clothing from the hippy movement: Soft colors, the obliteration of sexual difference, references to nature, rural life, vernacular motifs, nonviolence, political idealism which the punk style opposes anything that is considered ugly by baba cool: The modern style of the 60s (Jam), Flashy colors, printed lights (leopard lame, Scotland), tissues and synthetic materials (nylon, vinyl, plastic), the urban lifestyle, pessimism, chemical drugs, self-contempt, and some branches self-caricature of the movement's ignorance, vandalism free scientistic ideology, sexism and violence. This attitude, following a new generation at odds with the evident failure of that Woodstock, Chooses to call itself " punk. His music ignores the harmonies to favor a very rough and rhythmic power efficient, with patterns and words committed or revolting. It moves quickly to give birth to two other ideologies: skinheads (Fairly far from the ideology Punk branches Communists and Neo-Nazi), then New Wave.

Perceived by its detractors as a search for eccentricity and gratuitous provocation, it is more than fad still a source of inspiration for designers and advertisers bobos. The attire is used as a sign of belonging to a community of ideology, attitudes and tastes. The codes that determine it are constantly changing and redefining themselves as they are revealed to the public, popularized by the media and echoed by the fashion. Learning these codes is the order of initiation in which control of its own image and definition of personal identity go hand in hand.

The punk aesthetic is generally regarded as aggressive and uncompromising. It conveys both the values of freedom of 1950, Self-destruction to own damned poet, the edge of mods of 1960 and the refusal of the existing system[1]. Drawing its influences in several references or epochs, it relies heavily on the mix of genres and is well illustrated by the first delivery Sex Pistols where LydonThe singer, wearing his famous T-shirt "I hate Pink Floyd" with pants type Baggy"And suspenders ; Steve JonesThe guitarist, resembled Townshend (Guitarist The Who) ; Paul CookThe drummer, Rod Stewart in mods and Glen Matlock, Bassist wore pants with paint stains and a senior woman in pink leather[1].


In 1976, Aesthetics punk spreads from LondonPopularized through the media through Sex Pistols, Group emblematic of the movement.

The origins of the movement and thus its fashion are intimately related to the history of this group.




Keeping fairly typical of the early 1980s.

In 1974, To United States, A wildlife begins to emerge around the club scene CBGB's in a context where the end of the Vietnam War and Watergate[2] denotes with everything that has been possible before. foreshadow a willingness to change. Their music is powerful and aggressive, their pace of "Skinny lads"

Richard Hell occurs with large sunglasses style 1950A jacket in leatherA T-shirthair bristle with locks and variable length. At the same time, Ramones occur with a sallow complexion, black leather jackets type perfecto"Of sneakers, Of jeans ragged and torn[3]. While nihilists of Electric Eelssafety pins or inscriptions deemed insulting as logos White Power and swastikas[1]. too short and torn and a shown with T-shirts torn and patched with

This new genus is noticed by media and Richard Hell posed for their group Television with photographer Mapplethorpe. On the photograph is published in the magazine Interview ofWarholHe appears with a T-shirt torn hair and wearing a look which will be called "destroy"[4].

In 1975The movement began to be known as the "punk" Spurred by the fanzineLegs McNeil and John Holmstrom. namesake published from December 1975

Malcolm McLaren, Then manager of New York Dolls, Is New York[5]. He is impressed by the pace of Richard Hell and back discs, photos and articles LondonVivienne Westwood, Sex[4] with the intention to import this style in adapting to the English public[6]. for display in the store, so it is with

Sex then, already a popular alternative place by a customer underground. The shop is at its 3e change of name and direction but retains elements of previous trends (revival 1950, bikers) That will influence what will become the fashion punk. This name change brings a clientele of young commuters from rural proletarian who make a habit of wandering into the shop and whose appearance[7] reflects the trend of the times[1].

Here, Johnny Rotten had seen a poster of Richard Hell and started to imitate the look and cut, then spread this fashion[4] provided through Sex PistolsThe group he founded under the leadership of Malcolm McLaren and via the Bromley ContingentA band of fans and friends who formed the group around and shop.

Sid ViciousThe bassist group in February 1977 to 1978Is often described as embodying the "punk look"[4]. He is described as attentive to his appearance and imaginative in his dress, he wears garters its jeans or padlock the crotch[1].

Popularization [change]

This fashion meeting a success in a very fast England full economic crisisWithout social policy and the only future is the young proletarians unemployment: In particular, it is easy to implement, cheap (clothing recovered frippery or Army Surplus) And meets, while expressing it, the economic necessity of the moment.

She wants to embody the denial system of the time in rejecting the old codes from the motion hippy: The jeans Universal generation "peace and love is torn, long hair is shaved, the leather the rocker is accessorized withsafety pinsOf chainsOf nailsEtc.[8].

This denial of uniform and consistent system of the time expressed in the collections of the shop Sex :

  • provocation by using accessories Bondage or BDSM.
  • derision by using symbols seriously (like the hood of the rapist Cambridge) as fashion accessories.
  • the fidelity under the influence Situationist Malcolm McLaren, with the use of slogans protest or provocative on clothing.

This shop is one of the poles of the punk rock at its beginning. In addition to clothing fetish SexThe group popularized other products from the shop as pleated pants or velvet Corduroy, the Scarves suede, the jackets type 1950 with velvet collars, etc.[1].

End 1976, The Sun devoted to punk a double page where he presents them as « Hells Angels a nightmare to Clockwork Orange »[1].

From 1977The movement is so widespread that it becomes a real fad. Some stores open on King's Road with their own collection as Boy that this t-shirt with animal blood or dried printed with photos Mortuary Gilmore and jewelry made from syringes or condoms[1].

In 1977The British designer Zandra Rhodes presents the first collection couture[4]. inspired by the punk look - torn clothing, safety pins and chains

Elements of accessorizing clothes.

Safety pin.

Bicycle chains.

Rivets.


Keeping the mid-1980s.This popularity will eventually[9], Split fashion punk two different expressions that come together until the end of 1970. The interpretation of the street that tinkers with elements of his gait recovery perpetuating the inventiveness of the original style and the independent boutiques that are starting their own collections based on what generates the movement.The popularity also leads to the emergence of several trends resulting from different interpretations of the original spirit both musically and clothing.From 1978The emergence of coldwave gives rise styles inspired ska regarded as "icy" close mods with Costumes and hats[8]. This trend is in line with both the influence of films like Cabaret or Damned but also the orientation of the collections of the shop Sex inspired by different modes back in time from 1950[1]. It is also the emergence of the look paramilitaryOr even required for survival under the influence of the German group Kraftwerk[8].To 1979Is the beginning of the wave "Neo-romantic" where appearance is an essential and evolving towards a certain preciousness, which will lead to Gothic Movement and associated mode[8].



The punk fashion trends in 1979 can be classified into three groups around a privileged nature "contempt" for trend punk, "clean" for trend mods and "look menacing" to the trend skinhead[10]. Early 1980The look began to follow a trend tramp (Either type of depression 1930Or survivor of such a nuclear Apocalypse) who wants to get closer to the original spirit[8].

Early 1980Begins to emerge "Punks cans"[8] or Hangers attaching more sophisticated aspect of the appearance that the appearance of the claimant nihilistic movement[11], This fad will generate in response a protest movement, particularly through the DIY where clothes are custom without respect for the consumer object they represent. This movement will result in zero look "of Grunge1990. Other authors[12] attribute the appearance of "zero look" of GrungeRiders U.S.. in influences

Custom Jacket.

Custom Pants.

Custom leather jacket.

Military surplus jacket custom.

Look influence oy.

The politicization of the movement in particular through the oi! and influences skinheads causes changes in the look to suit the urban guerrilla. Thus, the shoes are hard chincup privileged to serve as a defense, the bomber is promoted as a jacket because it is difficult to grasp, the shaven can not give an easy grip, etc..

The taste freedom and diehard attitude are declined by the Riders, Which led the skate punk and look associated (tousled hair, pants type Baggy", Etc..) Popularized in 1990.

Taste kitsch and exuberance is declined by fashion Visual Kei.

The fascination for the post-apocalyptic atmosphere has declined in some currents techno or cyberpunk[12].

Each sub-trend, each interpretation of the original movement causes the emergence of a new genus which develops its own dress codes. The term "punkoïde" is sometimes used to designate the different movements from the original punk movement[12].

Trend emo.

Trend cyberpunk.

TrendPunk fashion is regularly revisited by fashion as Jean-Paul Gaultier or Martin Margiela, Demonstrating the importance of the social phenomenon it represents. It reverses the usual fashion spread in the sense that it is the street which it emerged that influenced the creators and not the reverse. Visual Kei.


Despite the diversity of accessories or clothing similar to punk aesthetics, certain elements or groups are recurring. But if there are criteria common to all the punks, their application is subject to the infinite variability of individual interpretations. This is the profusion of these criteria, in the form of repetition that allows identification punk[13]. This rehearsal is less pronounced in rural areas because it is more difficult to get some accessories and the possibility of social isolation is more important. It is also less marked and less codified in girls due to an under-representation of women in the image of society[13].

Like any fashion, punk fashion has a living component that makes evolutionary. Some trends are linked to different levels ofauthenticityExample. And it is also undergoing modes localized in time or space[13].




Badges.

The badge is emblematic of the rock culture. Its inexpensive nature and ease of manufacture or customization are in agreement with the punk subculture. As the t-shirt, it may take a symbolic value oficon it is decorated with the likeness, colors or logo of a group[13].

The suspenders will generally focus on the pending pants derision of their function to keep as much as a provocation vis-à-vis the dress code commonly accepted.

The hijacking of an object is a key factor popularized by the collections of the shop Sex. These collections use accessories in reference to Bondage or BDSM as handcuffsThe padlockThe chains, Loops of metal, lacesThe webbing who stand to impede the process, leashes and collars for dogs. But anything is likely to be abused for purposes of accessorizing, as tools of everyday life ridiculous, such as safety pinsThe nailsEtc.., Or even objects to practical functions such as blades shaversThe zippers, Bike chains or triplex who stand in belt or necklace.

The makeup is outrageous: the eyes are blackened kohl, Lips of an intense red, often pale complexion. Since the early 1970, Makeup and mascara in particular, may also be an expression of masculinity[14].

The body modificationGenerally belong to the rock culture, but especially Piercing1980[15]. Piercing suggests not only by bringing the savagery of Western societies peoples called "primitive" but is also regarded as an accessory deviant and perverse as well as accessories BDSM[12]. Some authors[12]It is possible to reconcile the changes made on the clothing of those made on the body, including the fact that like clothing, body modifications are often implemented by punks themselves[16]. which is often associated with punk culture. It is notably responsible for the popularization of the nostril piercing during

The rat is also in the range typical of punk, usually worn on the shoulder trotting[12]. The origin of this trend is attributed to a biography of sensational Unity Mitford published in 1976 which had a pet rat that she wore on the shoulder trend towards the use of political symbols offensive[1].

The strong political symbols are used for their provocative nature rather than their meaning is the case of swastika, TheStar of David or the keffiyeh (Symbol of the people Palestinian), Anecdotally colors rasta (Red, yellow, green).

Suspenders.

Piercing the nostril.

Ears with safety pin in piercing.

Fancy rat.

Shoes 

Large shoes are classics. They are generally rising and hard chincup. They may be styled "safety shoe" on Dr. Martens or style "combat boot" often called " Rangers »[17]. They can be accessorized or painted, and is worn open or closed.The creepers, Emblem Teddy Boys of 1950Have been revived by the day Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren who sold them their first London store Let It Rock and the sale of which has persisted despite changes of name and direction of the shop. The movement psychobilly (Mixture punk and rockabilly) Adopts them as a landmark.Influences skate punk also lead to use of shoes skate (Vans, Globe, Etnies, Etc.).

Dr. Martens.

"Rangers".

Brand Shoes Vans.

Creepers.

Headgear 

Coupescum.gif

The cut "Firecracker in the Sid Vicious(Called scum in English[4]) Is clearly inspired by the original hair Richard Hell. This section will evolve over Siouxsie Sioux to inspire Robert Smith and become an iconic hairstyle Gothic Movement early 1980[4]. The cup symbolizes the rejection of the fashion whose trend 1976 was in the loop and long hair, along with the rejection of the motion hippy the origin of this fashion. His homemade side exposing the crisis of the time in United Kingdom expressing "No money, no future"[4].

In this attitude of rejection of long hair, the hair may even be demolished, totally or in maintaining a ridge.

Crest.svg

The mohawk (Or Mohawk Hairstyle in English) Is considered the quintessential punk hairstyle: At the time, all means were good to hold it up (glue, soap, egg white, etc.) that will pave the way for new cosmetics non-fixating[18]. This hairstyle is easy to realize oneself is fast and therefore 1977It is proposed and interpreted in some barbershopsIncluding that of Ray BirdUnder different names: "Pretty punk, "Hedgehog head"[4]. Ray Bird created thus Innovative headgear including the integration of drawings, Acronyms or words, shaved hair.

Its ease of implementation from any hairstyle is offset by the almost impossible to hide it when completed, making it a strong visual symbol of the attitude diehard punks[4]. As the late 1970The English punk became a sort of tourist attraction Sloane Square, Is this even on postcards and souvenir shops, the peak takes extravagant gaits (color, height, shape, etc.). To satisfy the tourists and glean some 50 pence for a picture they give[4]. In response to this hype, a trend will be the peak but not the half dresser.La peak also exists but is less common in fact it should be a ridge on top of the skull and put in dryer behind firecracker

Peak color type late 1970 Sloane Square.

Peak color.

Ridge topped with peaks (spikes).

Crete not prepared.

Colored hair.

This method of coloring hair is also characteristic of the discharge patterns of the time aimed at the natural colors are used for artificial deliberately shocking: fluorescent orange, green, exposed roots, etc..

The shaven appears with the politicization of the movement, in a symbol of total negation of the system, the hard-line DIY and with a practical aspect, since hair can not be seized in case of riots[19].

There are other cuts more anecdotal but generally more extravagant as the act of shaving and shaping the remaining hair to simulate horns on the front[12] or Devilock (Hairdressing iconic group Misfits).

Besides the styling, the punk fashion this as the male face shaved. This trend is as much attributable to the youth of the protagonists to their original way to take the codes from the rear as at the time the beard is rather in vogue[20]. The half peak also exists but is less common in fact it must be a ridge on top of the skull and put in dryer firecracker behind.

Materials, patterns and volumes [change]

Fining Jamie Reid.

Materials beacon of culture rock of 1950 are revisited, accessorised, torn, patched but still relevant as leather for Jackets and jeans for pantsCigarette-cut called "slim fits" in English (in the form of straight tube and end)[21].

Under the influence of Jamie ReidThe collage is widely used both for the printed design - style letters cut from a newspaper as an anonymous letter - or the overlay materials and assemblies.

The stitch of all sizes whose fishnet takes an important place, especially in women's clothes.
The lace and satin are partly used to play on a contrast between the preciosity
and sophistication that follow from this type of material compared to the overall look.

The symbols strengths of monarchy and bourgeoisie[12] to United Kingdom are diverted to dress like Union Jack or tartan (Plaid).

Tartan.

Jacket (Type Harrington) with typical indoor tartan.

Flag of the United Kingdom.

Keeping with the leopard.

Taste kitsch displayed by reasons leopard, Prince of Wales, foot-holes, peas or stripes.

In the grounds, as in color, it is a mode contrast using colors classified as violent or loud[22] : black, white, red bright blue electric purple flashy.

This will contrast is also found in the volumes of clothing that are sometimes very long[23]Very broad, very short - particularly skirts women - or very tight.

On the other hand, in response to natural codes in place from the hippie movement, synthetic materials, a symbol of modern commodity production, as plastic or BakeliteAre widely used for accessories[13].

Clothing [change]

Jacket type perfecto.
Bomber type jacket.
By inheritance DIYThe clothing bought in thrift store or military surplus and are personalized by drawings, Logos, symbols, slogans or s'accessoirisent, tear, etc..For Rowland-Warne[24]It is possible to interpret this trend to tear the clothes to show the bottom as a reminiscence the burst mode of[25]. This way of exhibiting the following is systematized in the port of lingerie over other clothes and complete by wearing their clothes backwards. For others, the tearing clothing refers to the violence even the sexuality[1].In Jackets occur on perfecto[26]Symbol of rock, but revisited in fashion than punk image obsolete "bloated rocker"[17] and bomberBecause of the politicization of the movement and the practical as it is difficult to grasp.Because of the diversion of tartan (Plaid), the kilt is also an iconic garment, often worn on a jeans.For the next challenging, women wear miniskirts with the mesh or footless tights.

Keeping with t-shirt torn.

Keeping with second-hand garments or military surplus.

Clothing accessorized with safety pins.

Keeping with laundry apparent.

This upset the clothing system. For this, the pace is constructed with a blend of disparate elements, usually with a desire to thwart the usual representations of clothing in the majority of the population. The socks holes are made on fishnet stockings, tights overlapping holes, lingerie apparent long sweater used in mini-dresses, clothing worn in reverse, suspenders worn down, shirt out of his trousers, tie too wide, etc..[13]

Cases of t-shirt

T-shirts.